A few days ago I received the following letter from a Polish traveller to this neck of the woods. I’m reproducing the letter in its entirety, with author’s permission, in the hope it may be of use to other potential travellers here.
2 months ago I asked you some questions before the trip to Teriberka, Tumanny and Sredny peninsula. I returned home recently.
I want to tell you, that all your information was correct. I wasn’t arrested there. Also, there are no gas stations, tire services nor car services at the road to – and in – Teriberka and Tumanny. Nature is astonishing there, and Teriberka is really magic place. I saw Kandalaksha too, and many other towns, like Kalevala, Belogorsk or Kirovsk.
When trying to drive to Sredni peninsula, despite being careful, I destroyed the exhaust in my car after just a few hundred meters. It was a huge mistake, this road is exclusively for SUVs and 4×4s. I’ve been in a workshop in Zapolyarny, but the damage was so severe, I was forced to leave for Norway with a broken exhaust because my visa (and temporary car importation) were about to expire. Nobody in low cars should try to go there.
Also, while going to Teriberka/Tumanny, I noticed as low temperatures, as 2 deg. C. (5 – 8 was typical). The temperature sensor was at the mirror level, so just above the ground, near 0 was possible. So, driving there, at the end of June, with water in the radiator is possible, but risky.
Best wishes – Jack from Poland