A letter from a recent traveller to Sredny and Rybachy, Teriberka and Tumany

A few days ago I received the following letter from a Polish traveller to this neck of the woods. I’m reproducing the letter in its entirety, with author’s permission, in the hope it may be of use to other potential travellers here. 

Hi

2 months ago I asked you some questions before the trip to Teriberka, Tumanny and Sredny peninsula. I returned home recently.

I want to tell you, that all your informations were correct. I wasn’t
arrested there. Also, there are no gas stations, tire services nor car
services at the road to – and in – Teriberka and Tumanny. Nature is
astonishing there, and Teriberka is really magic place. I saw Kandalaksha
too, and many other towns, like Kalevala, Belogorsk or Kirovsk.

When trying to drive to Sredni peninsula, despite being careful, I destroyed
exhaust in my car after just few hundred meters. It was huge mistake, this
road is exclusively for SUVs and 4×4s. I’ve been in workshop in Zapolyarny,
but damage was so severe, I was forced to leave to Norway with broken
exhaust, because my visa (and temporary car importation) was about to
expire. Nobody in low cars should try to go there.

Also, while going to Teriberka/Tumanny, I noticed as low temperatures, as 2
deg. C. (5 – 8 was typical). The temperature sensor was at a mirror, so just
above the ground, near 0 was possible. So, driving there, at the end of
June, with water in radiator was possible, but risky.

Best wishes – Jack from Poland

Weekly fish and sea food fair in Murmansk

A few months ago somebody asked me for a review of the local fish market.

An often-heard complaint about the local fish scene is that it has very little locally caught fish. Recently, however, a weekly fish and sea product fair has opened in Murmansk.

It is supposed to be held every Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm at the Forum Trade Center. The address is Kolsky Proyezd 134. One can get there by a free bus that is said to be leaving every hour starting 9:30 am from Ulitsa Gadzhiyeva in the city center.

Sounds like a good place to get a glimpse of the local fish scene, including the fishermen who, it is said, bring their catch straight to the market.

A night-time tour of Kandalaksha – am I still capable of staying up and active until 6am?

Motivated by greed, I’ve conceded to give an overview tour of Kandalaksha and area on the night from Saturday to Sunday, starting at 1am and ending at 6am. Now, as the day or, rather, night, approaches I’m starting to have doubts about the wisdom of my decision. Somehow staying up all night is something that no longer seems easy although I worked as a night watchman for a considerable time in Canada in my younger days. We’ll see if I’m still capable of pulling it off..

The City Day June 30 at the Monastery Cape

The festivities start at 12:30 and include historic reconstruction, the sale of local arts and crafts, and a sailing regatta.

A good opportunity to meet the active part of the local society for anyone for whatever reason is interested in Kandalaksha.

(Photos are from last year’s City Day.)

 

 

The City Day June 30 at the Monastery Cape

The festivities start at 12:30 and include historic reconstruction, the sale of local arts and crafts, and a sailing regatta.

A good opportunity to meet the active part of the local society for anyone for whatever reason is interested in Kandalaksha.

(The rest of the story went south because of a screw up with the site.)

New WW2 stuff from the swamp near the Salla Border Crossing point

A recent expedition by the Russian Geographical Society, the Northern Fleet, and the “Verman” group of the Russian War Artefacts search movement have pulled a bunch of war-related stuff out of a Salla Border Crossing point area swamp. 

Things found included tracks and other fragments of two Soviet VT-7 and one German T-II tanks, a part of the Soviet 44mm gun, a number of household items (like flasks), and remains of one Wehrmacht soldier.

Items found are said to eventually put on display at the Naval Museum of the Northern Fleet in Murmansk.

A NEW BOOK: A WILD BIRD AND A CULTURED MAN

The Common Eider and Homo Sapiens: Fourteen Centuries Together

A popular science book by Alexandra Goryashko

Publication expected in 2019

 

The preparation of a popular science book on the world-wide history of the relationship between humans and the eiders – A Wild Bird and a Cultured Man (The Common Eider and Homo Sapiens: Fourteen Centuries Together) – for printing is nearing its end.

more >>

Garbage-related protests in Arkhangelsk continue

Large-scale protests against the authorities’ plans to ship Moscow garbage to the Arkhangelsk Region, apparently, continue in the City of Arkhangelsk.

Here is a recent goarctic.ru article, in Russian, explaining in detail the current situation. 

Some more recent materials, in English:

(Sorry, lost after site restoration.)

Average wages in Kandalaksha

Kandalaksha Online reports, without indicating the source, that the average wage in Kandalaksha as of April 2019 is 28,600 roubles per month, or just under $500/month. The current exchange rate is in the area of 66 roubles for one dollar US….

(The rest of this post went south after site restoration.)