Archangelsk British Military Cemetery. Photos of all tombstones.

Moscow ornithologist Pavel Kvartalnov has recently made, on our request that was, in turn, prompted by an enquiry by the person who contributes to the Yorkshire Regiment WW1 Remembrance site, a full set of the Arkhangelsk British Cemetery graves. They can be found at [removed on author’s requestб probably available if you ask for it].

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Long-awaited direct Murmansk to Arkhangelsk flights are here


The other day I’ve noticed a poster by Orenburzhye Airlines at the local supermarket announcing direct daily Murmansk to Arkhangelsk flights. The cost of the ticket is ~8000 roubles (about $130) one way according to their site. Before this offer became available one would either have to fly via Moscow (that would take pretty much the whole day) or spend one and a half or two days on the train.

Intellectual Life and Literature at Solovki

Intellectual Life and Literature at Solovki by Andrea Gullotta of the University of Glasgow is expected to come out in February 2017. solovki





















The book describes the initial period of the camp’s history, when it was relatively benign, with scientific and literary journals published, before it was turned into a killing site in the 1930s.

For details see

A monument to Stalin in Arkhangelsk

stalinIf I correctly read this report from, the brass figure has already been cast, and the procedure of finding “a place of honour” in the center of Arkhangelsk to install it is well under way, with popular support..

White Sea kayaking

A group of courageous/foolhardy Czech travellers sent me a question on the possibility (mostly from the legal rather than technical point of view) of going from Kem’ to Solovki, circling the island, and returning to Belomorsk by sea kayak. At the moment I’m investigating the issue by asking people closely associated with this type of trips, but getting contradictory answers. Does anybody have reliable info on the subject of whether the authorities would interfere and make these travellers stop their suicidal trip, and possibly give them some extra trouble eg. fines or arrest?

A monument to Stalin in Arkhangelsk

stalinThe campaign to erect a monument to the former Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin as well as the seemingly growing opposition to the project are well under way in Arkhangelsk.

The cost of the project is said to be about 500 thousand roubles (about $7000 at the currect exchange rate), of which 30 thousand have already been collected. Once the funds are there it should take 2-3 monthes to manufacture the statue.

A Solovki film from Russia Beyond the Headlines

Click on the image to see an excellent film, with English subtitles, where an attempt is made to present the whole view of the island, from antiquity to its present day.solovki-rbth

Our Nenets neighbours classed as “foreign agents”

nenetsky-regionBarents observer reports that the Nenets organization Yasavey Manzara is the first indigenous peoples´ organization in the Barents Region to be declared “foreign agents”. The Arkhangelsk and Nenets department of the Ministry of Justice has put Yasavey Manzala on the foreign agents list on Sept. 23. This means the ceasure of organization’s work as continuing after being labeled “foreign agent” requires adminstrative resources Yasavey Manzara does not have.

Kem to Solovki navigation starts in two weeks has just announced that the Kem to Solovki navigation opens on May 23, which is two weeks.

Here is the schedule of boat trips between Kem (the village of Rabocheostrovski) and Solovetsky Islands:

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Travelling around Solovki by bicycle in March

March is considered by some to be the best time to travel around these places. Enough light, not bitterly cold, yet winter, which defines the character of the region, is still in full bloom. You stand a good chance of seeing aurora borealis too. Alexandra has just stumbled on this photo report of a bicycle trip to Solovki in March.


More here >>

It needs to be mentioned that the only way to get to Solovki this time of year is by plane from Arkhangelsk at the cost of 10 th. roubles ($US170) both ways.