A new and almost the only one, if we put aside sushi counters in two of the local Euroross supermarkets and the Greenwich cafe that used to advertise sushi, was noticed in Kandalaksha. It is on the side of the pedestrian overpass opposite to (south from) the train sation. The address is Komsomolskaya 32A, and their VK page is https://new.vk.com/bentokanda.
At last! Now booze can be bought in Kandalaksha around the clock. A vodka store operating under the banner of a “cafe”, to which no time restrictions apply, just opened by the Malahit Shopping Center (Pervomayskaya ulitsa 59). A small sign on the store says it is open 24 hours.
Hibiny.com reports that Kandalaksha and area water is safe before it enters the distribution system, and if I correctly understood the story, it remains borderline acceptable when delivered to households through dirty rotten pipes.
Still, the official advice is to boil water before drinking it.
My own nose tends to be skeptical about this advice, and I recommend you get your water from one of several springs around the city.
On the second floor of the Niva movie theatre, ul. Pervomayskaya 32, around the square with a T-34 tank around which you’ll find the City Hall and the Belomorye hotel. A very short and basic menu. OK coffee and hot chocolate. Open Wedn. to Sunday noon to 9pm. Geared towards children, with a football board and a “labyrinth” avaialble for the kids, although somewhat overpriced (80 roubles per can) beer is offered to adults.
Ironically, “Upper Chamber” is in a basement. Specious and usually empty, it is suitable for events. The menu is minimalistic. But it is open till midnight, and run by a bunch of fun-loving locals who get progressively happier as the day nears its end, the fact a hard core immersion and authenticity connoisseur is certain to uppreciate.
The address is Spekoka 32.
Ulitsa Spekova is the one that starts from the statue of a Soviet hero after whom it was named throwing a hand grenade at evil Finns who dared to refuse the Russian demand for land. That’s a late 30s business, when Russia mirrored German invasion of Poland. The participants of the aggression are still considered heros, not victims of times when it was about impossible not get immersed in evil and stupidity as an active participant.
Perhaps I’ve been one of these grumpy ever-critical Russians too much and too long. To make up let me open a new Russophilia category for things that I actually like about this place and its inhabitants. Done, here.
The first entry will be an ordinary liquor and beer store at Pervomayskaya 57 in Kandalaksha that put one plastic table in the corner of the hall, dubbed itslef a cafe, and thus circumvented the ban on boose sale after 9pm. Being a cafe they will have to insist on opening the bottle on the premises but no one will force you to stay there till done.