One every few days we hear a report of a bus full of Chinese travelers stuck on this road. Not surprising. Conditions here, in the south of the Kola Peninsula, are much milder. Bare ice everywhere is the biggest of our road problems..
A recent photo by Alexander Popov
A few days ago I received the following letter from a Polish traveller to this neck of the woods. I’m reproducing the letter in its entirety, with author’s permission, in the hope it may be of use to other potential travellers here.
2 months ago I asked you some questions before the trip to Teriberka, Tumanny and Sredny peninsula. I returned home recently.
I want to tell you, that all your informations were correct. I wasn’t
arrested there. Also, there are no gas stations, tire services nor car
services at the road to – and in – Teriberka and Tumanny. Nature is
astonishing there, and Teriberka is really magic place. I saw Kandalaksha
too, and many other towns, like Kalevala, Belogorsk or Kirovsk.
When trying to drive to Sredni peninsula, despite being careful, I destroyed
exhaust in my car after just few hundred meters. It was huge mistake, this
road is exclusively for SUVs and 4×4s. I’ve been in workshop in Zapolyarny,
but damage was so severe, I was forced to leave to Norway with broken
exhaust, because my visa (and temporary car importation) was about to
expire. Nobody in low cars should try to go there.
Also, while going to Teriberka/Tumanny, I noticed as low temperatures, as 2
deg. C. (5 – 8 was typical). The temperature sensor was at a mirror, so just
above the ground, near 0 was possible. So, driving there, at the end of
June, with water in radiator was possible, but risky.
Best wishes – Jack from Poland
A couple of days ago I heard a report that the Murmansk to Teriberka road is open to the joy of crowds of Chinese travellers for whom this, apparently, is a popular destination.
Now, the beginning of April, may actually be the best time to visit these places. There is still snow and you can enjoy winter thrills like skiing and snowmobiling but it is not that cold (around freezing in the daytime) and the daylight lasts from 7am until after 8pm. Truly, the best of all worlds.
Rock and folk music, discussions, workshops, food, games, sea excursions, tours and fashion shows are promised. No restriction to foreigner access to Teriberka. There appears to be a lot of traffic between Murmansk and Teriberka so hitching a ride should not be a problem. Current super-hot weather makes staying there in a tent entirely realistic. More information, in Russian, at vk.com/teriberkafest.
Dalniye Zelentsy is a village on the Barents Sea coast, 170km east from Murmansk.
From 1935 to the beginning of the 1990s the Murmansk Biological Station (from 1958 the Biological Station of the Murmansk Sea Biology Institute) was active there. The purmanent population of the village was about 600, which included both scientists and technical personnel from among the locals. Presently the biological station is abandoned, and about 10 permanently live there. Some biologists visit the station in the summer. more >>
Photos by Alexandra Goryashko, who travelled there a week ago.
The total distance is 170km, of which the first 80, till the road forks to Teriberka, is a normal asphalt highway. Then, till Tumanny, the dirt road is still passable. There is even a bus connecting Tumanny and Murmansk, leaving Murmansk at 6pm on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, and back from Tumanny at 7am Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Monday.
On July 23, during the bird-counting trip in Dalnie Zelentsy, 40km east from Teriberka, the motor boat Alexandra was on got surrounded by several small (~7-9m long) Minke whales, to Alexanda’s and other travellers’ delight.
Here are a few photos from that occasion: