For around a week. We will try to stay in touch.
Uncle Pasha and the wild horse in Kuzomen last summer
Here is a film one of my readers pointed to:
And a comment from Alexandra about the use of quadros:
They are a disaster that destroyes the vegetation cover. She requests that I miss no opportunity to call on quadro users to stay on roads to avoid damage to fragile northern ground cover.
Here, done, request added.
Insider info from Julia Solntseva, a local expert and a publisher of a variety of travel guides: Call
8 911 344 2772 or 8 921 281 7152 about guesthouses in Kuzomen, Chavanga, Pyalitsa, or Strelna. Or write to email@example.com, Svetlana.
Here is a map clearly showing these somewhat obscure locations:
Click to open to full size
Irina Mikhailovna Deryabina, +7 921 709 7980.
If you get stuck, call Alexei, +7 911 308 0311. His huge 3-axle ZIL truck will pull your jeep out of anywhere.
S nowman_pro from Kirovsk. Recommend.
, Village of Kuzomen Ter coast of the White Sea, about 300km east from Kandalaksha. This p olar desert is a favorite place of Uncle Pasha on the Ter edge of the Kola Peninsula.
Kuzomen, last summer. The famous wild horses easily agreed to domestication in exchange for bread and cabbage.
The story in Russian, with photos >>
Cemeteries of Kashkarantsy, Olenino, Kuzomen and Varzuga, with lists of names. Cemeteries of the Murmansk Sea side. Saami cemeteries. See qwercus.narod.ru/necropolis_tre.htm
A nicely put together small booklet on Kandalaksha and area. Particularly valuable is the description of the border crossing at Salla and other travel technicalities.
At the moment it is in Russian only but the author is a good friend of mine, and I’ll be getting Pasha to translate and adapt it for English-speaking travellers.