This is one of the easiest yet most interesting routes around the Kola Peninsula. You can do that alone or by hiring Uncle Pasha as your driver, guide, and translator.
Below are travel notes from the first two days on the road. These are useful (facts) and useless (beautiful sights).
Up to very recently the only option for for four elementary school age kids in Kuzomen was a boarding school in Varzuga, with mere 8 visits home per year.
Things changed recently with the arrival of the new teacher, Ekaterina Mikhailovna Burnayeva, from Murmansk, after her two trips to South Carolina, USA.
In addition to teaching she prepares school lunches and chases away the famous wild horses of Kuzomen that often scare children.
Our friend snowman-pro just posted this August’s photos of their para-glider flights over Kashkarantsy, Kuzomen, and Varzuga. Photos taken from low height, with lots of details, thus a realistic picture of what the land is like.
Above: overall view onto Kuzomen.
Here is a series of particularly silly horse images of “wild” Kuzomen horses. Photos taken by
Alexandra. You travellers are encouraged to sign up for a trip there and to Umba and Varzuga.
Alexandra’s blog for a series of new photos from the Kkuzomen cemetery. The above is yet another skull she found.
The highlight of yesterday was eating a large salmon, washed down with two beers on my part, and a bottle of champaign for the two of us.
For around a week. We will try to stay in touch.
Uncle Pasha and the wild horse in Kuzomen last summer
Here is a film one of my readers pointed to:
And a comment from Alexandra about the use of quadros:
They are a disaster that destroyes the vegetation cover. She requests that I miss no opportunity to call on quadro users to stay on roads to avoid damage to fragile northern ground cover.
Here, done, request added.
Insider info from Julia Solntseva, a local expert and a publisher of a variety of travel guides: Call
8 911 344 2772 or 8 921 281 7152 about guesthouses in Kuzomen, Chavanga, Pyalitsa, or Strelna. Or write to firstname.lastname@example.org, Svetlana.
Here is a map clearly showing these somewhat obscure locations:
Click to open to full size
Irina Mikhailovna Deryabina, +7 921 709 7980.
If you get stuck, call Alexei, +7 911 308 0311. His huge 3-axle ZIL truck will pull your jeep out of anywhere.