antiutopia_car_2A successful collective farm, fell apart, a small semi-ghost village was left behind. Gloom and despair incarnate. Actually no, I’m wrong here, no “despair”. People here are well adapted to going on in good cheer despite numerous despites. My hat off. But the scenery is of the sort that makes one expect packs of wild dogs and zombies.

more >>

A very inexpensive large apartment in Luvenga for sale

Three rooms, first floor, with ~1/10 of an acre plot of land. Location: Luvenga, 14km east from Kandalaksha.

Cheap: 220 th. roubles (~$3500).

But requires a full renovation job.

Sold by a good friend of mine, the knife and sleigh maker Vasily Ivanovich.

This offer may be of interest to those wishing to establish a foothold in Russia.

Photos will be added soon.

Contact me at for more information.

Polar night over in Kandalaksha

Yesterday I was dragged out to Luvenga by my mate Alexandra, who totally disregarded my profound desire to spend Jan. 1 in coach-glued lethargy, and was forced to observe the first true sunrise of the year.

sunrise-1 more >>

Off to the hills for the whole day

okkatyeva-hillToday I’m taking two Finnish travellers first to the Volostnaya hill, and then to the famous “Iron Gates” between the Domashniye (“home”) tundras and Okkatyeva hill, half-way between Luvenga and KolvitsaWish us all luck.

This season’s first mushrooms

Gyromitra-esculentaPicked up 5 fruiting bodies of Brain Fungus (Gyromitra esculenta) yesterday near Luvenga. Intend to eat them today.

Since this mushroom is of somewhat controversial edibility I want to say possible good by to friends and clients. (I do intend to boil it twice before consuming though.)

Double axe murder in Luvenga

axe-murder-luvengaRumours have reached me that New Year celebration in Luvenga, 14km east from Kandalaksha along the South coast of the peninsula, resulted in two dead bodies, reduced to this sorry state in the evening of Jan. 1 by means of an axe.

It is usual and typical for this sort of things to happen during long holidays.

Details, if available, will be shared with humanity later.

Seen Aurora Borealis with my own eyes


In my nearly three years in Kandalaksha and area I haven’t seen the famous aurora borealis even once, and was starting to think that numerous reports are but a conspiracy to entice tourists into coming here. That is, till last night, when it was noticed over Luvenga, and seen with my own eyes for about 15 minutes, around 11pm. I hearby confirm aurora borealis is real.

more >>