A successful collective farm, fell apart, a small semi-ghost village was left behind. Gloom and despair incarnate. Actually no, I’m wrong here, no “despair”. People here are well adapted to going on in good cheer despite numerous despites. My hat off. But the scenery is of the sort that makes one expect packs of wild dogs and zombies.
No hotels in Luvenga. If you for whatever mysterious reason want to stay here, talk to me. I’ll probably set you up with one of the hospitable locals, very inexpensively.
Because of my association with Alexandra, whose job in in the Luvenga outpost of the Kandalaksha nature reserve (backup here), and with sleigh maker Vasily Ivanovich, I know Luvenga better than any other place along the south edge of Kola, and will be happy to advise brave souls venturing here.
Luvenga Station of the Kandalaksha Nature Reserve
There are still a few Pomor type characters in villages along the cost. Ethnically Pomors are Russians or of mostly Russian origin. What sets them aside is history, culture, values, and lifestyle. Think of Pomors as the Russian equivalent of Protestants. One feature of the Pomor culture is active women who fish, hunt, and hold official or even church posts.
Middle of July! Up in the hills, about an hour walk from the warm sea.