This is one of the easiest yet most interesting routes around the Kola Peninsula. You can do that alone or by hiring Uncle Pasha as your driver, guide, and translator.
Below are travel notes from the first two days on the road. These are useful (facts) and useless (beautiful sights).
The arctic circle, marked with the sign by which Uncle Pasha has his photo taken, is about 150km east from Kandalaksha, or 40km east from Umba. Here we exit the area officially designated as “far north”.
Soon asphalt ends and dirt road largely consisting of famous sand stone begins.
There are a few villages along the road, small and quaint. We don’t like to rush and make frequent stops. The trip from Kandalaksha to Kuzomen, which can be made in half a day if one really wanted to, took us two days.
For the first night we usually stop near the village of Kashkarantsy. The road follows the sea coast, the views are beautiful, the sea is accessible, and cell phone and internet work from the tower in the village.
There are many interesting places where one can stop along the road. For example, it is the chappel and sping of the Nameless Monk of Ter.
Or the geological monument of the Ship Cape, with its amethysts.
After you turn from the main road to Kuzomen the road goes through a beautiful forest with lichen-lined floor, with lots of mushrooms.
And here, by the middle of the second day, we are in our beloved Kuzomen.