Moscow ornithologist Pavel Kvartalnov has recently made, on our request that was, in turn, prompted by an enquiry by the person who contributes to the Yorkshire Regiment WW1 Remembrance site, a full set of the Arkhangelsk British Cemetery graves. They can be found at [removed on author’s requestб probably available if you ask for it].
Looking at site statistics. Enquiries related to hand grenade brought me – surprise! – the most visitors. Next comes, as expected, Kandalaksha, followed by the Newcomb Mott story and Murmansk prostitutes. Click More below to see the complete table of captured search words and phrases (most are not registered by site stats though) since this project has started in the summer of 2013.
Chapoma and Pulonga are marked with red arrows.
The trip starts with hiring a heavy truck and crossing the Varzuga River:
100-something kilometers of a gruelling non-road, and you’ll find yourself in Chapoma. more >>
SOME SKETCHY NOTES BASED ON OUR LATE AUGUST 2011 TRIP FROM KANDALAKSHA TO MOSCOW. STATUS: HEAVY-DUTY DRAFT, TO BE FINISHED IN THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE..
See also Invitation to join
A camping trip through Karelia and the Golden Ring. Adventures and misadventures. Travel notes, observations, musings and, “will it ever end” road fatigue. End of August 2011. This is a story of our trip from the Luvenga outpost of the Kandalaksha Nature reserve to Moscow. Off August 28, in Moscow in the evening of September 1 2011, so it was 5 days and four nights. The party was Pasha, Alexandra, her son Fedya, and the dog Tasha. Pasha was responsible for the vehicle, navigation, cooking, and generating chatter that was then to be re-worked into a coherent story. Alexandra was taking photos and notes. Fedya and Alexandra together were looking after setting up and folding down the camp, and then drying the stuff sometime in the middle of the day when we managed to catch some sun. Tasha made the scene complete. The car was a 1995 Land Rover diesel. After a 8000 roubles (nearly $300) undercoating job and a few other repairs and improvements we were nearly out of cash of the scale required for hotels. Besides, very few of them would take us with the dog, let alone a bitch in heat. The accommodation mode thus was to be camping, with an effort to stay away from cafes. This story that is intended give you a general impression of how it is to travel in northern Russia. And to try ourselves in the travelogue genre. Bits of specific information mentioned here will be moved to city/town/location pages of www.staritsa.info so don’t sift through the whole story (based on 28 pages raw notes)to fish out useful particulars.
The day before I took the car to Kandalaksha and had one of these electronic door locks installed. When not locked officially this device blinks till the battery is exhausted. The trip started with an hour’s delay to recharge the battery. Got loaded, settled, and moving about 1pm.
DON’T LEAVE CAR REPAIRS AND IMPROVEMENTS TILL JUST BEFORE YOUR TRIP. THE BATTERY IS THE MOST FREQUENT THING TO FAIL. HAVE WITH YOU JUMPER CABLES AND/OR A TOWING CABLE AND/OR A BATTERY CHARGER. I PLAN TO INSTALL A BACKUP BATTERY. THE COOLING SYSTEM IS ANOTHER WEAK LINK. HAVE DUCT TAPE AND A FEW BOTTLES OF WATER TO FIX THE COOLING SYSTEM.
Our leaving coincided with the advent of fall. Hills all of a sudden turned into mountains with cloud-covered peaks. It seems that as winter nears things here acquire serious and significance. By mid-November the sea becomes a mess of moving blocks of ice. Getting lost in the woods is an experience you are lucky to return from alive. Summer and Winter Kola are worlds apart.
Unmarked and largely unknown even thought it is right next to Kandalaksha. more >>
The classics: museums and souvenirs
- Museum of Kandalaksha History
- Museum of the Kandalaksha Nature Reserve, where you can view film documentaries not available anywhere else
- Private museum of publisher V.P. Garkotin. By appointment only.
- Bagryanitsa workshop
- All-sort-of-stuff store
- Museum of the History of the Niva Hydroelectric Stations Cascade (by prior arrangement only)
- Museum of the Train Depot (by prior arrangement only)
For nature lovers
There is said to be a British military cemetery in Murmansk by Planernoye Pole (“Glider Field”), with 40 graves from 1917-1918, when an international effort was made to bail Russia out of trouble. They were moved there from from their original location at ulitsa Burkova when an amusement rides park was build there in 1970s. Most graves are symbolic, a few are real. Origin: www.shvedirina.ru
Even two years ago Pasha was still willing to explore what’s around. I’ve just dug up this 2011 story of his visit to Ruskeala (west Karelia), to Julia’s farm, one of the centers of fashionable rural tourism.
For a list of names from the graves along the south-west edge of the Kola peninsula see qwercus.narod.ru (Russian).