Wish us luck. Hope to be back to Kandalaksha tomorrow night. Intact. In one piece..
The most striking piece of bad news is the collapse of the railroad bridge near the City of Kola on or around June 3, thus cutting the railroad connection to Murmansk. This was caused by high level of water in the Kola River. The governor apparently declared it will be restored within five days which, of course, is totally unrealistic.
A few months ago somebody asked me for a review of the local fish market.
An often-heard complaint about the local fish scene is that it has very little locally caught fish. Recently, however, a weekly fish and sea product fair has opened in Murmansk.
It is supposed to be held every Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm at the Forum Trade Center. The address is Kolsky Proyezd 134. One can get there by a free bus that is said to be leaving every hour starting 9:30 am from Ulitsa Gadzhiyeva in the city center.
Sounds like a good place to get a glimpse of the local fish scene, including the fishermen who, it is said, bring their catch straight to the market.
A recent expedition by the Russian Geographical Society, the Northern Fleet, and the “Verman” group of the Russian War Artefacts search movement have pulled a bunch of war-related stuff out of a Salla Border Crossing point area swamp.
Things found included tracks and other fragments of two Soviet VT-7 and one German T-II tanks, a part of the Soviet 44mm gun, a number of household items (like flasks), and remains of one Wehrmacht soldier.
Fourteen “ugly duckling” Citroen 2CV cars with 29 courageous Dutch on board have left Groningem, the sister city of Murmansk, and are expected to arrive on January 26. They will be parked by the Radisson Polarnye Zori hotel on ulitsa Knipovicha 17. The official meeting with Murmansk residents is next day, Saturday, January 27, at 12:30 pm. Free admission.
The group plans to visit the Children’s Hospital and the Center for the Disabled in Murmansk.
Got several inquiries from travelers wishing to come here to see the aurora borealis, aka northern lights. Here is my attempt to provide a comprehensive answer to the seekers of this phenomenon.
The most common question is “When do I need to travel to the Kola Pensula to see aurora borealis for sure”. First, forget the “for sure” part. The aurora is a probabilistic thing. Thus there is no clear-cut answer to this question. Generally speaking, aurora borealis can be observed at high latitudes any time there are dark nights. On the Kola Peninsula it is approximately from September to April.
A common misconception is that aurora borealis requires real cold winter weather. This photo was made in the Hibiny mountains on the 28th of September, and I’ve myself seen the aurora in the vicinity of Kandalaksha starting the end of August.
Here is a story by Kristin Evju from her Norwegians’ group September 2017 visit to the local cultural Sami events in Murmansk and Lovozero, with a detour to Seidjavr Lake, with the assistance of Mikhail Barakovsky, with whose support I took two Swedish journalists to see reindeer keepers a couple of years ago.
The story is of the “atmospheric” type, with not much in the way of practical details, but a would-be traveler can, and are encouraged to contact us for these.
The annoying thing is that there is no direct link, either by bus or railroad, between Kandalaksha and Zapolarny. You’ll have to travel through Murmansk. But it turned out easier than anticipated.
To get to Murmansk fast and cheap hop on a minibus that leaves at 5:30 am and 6:30 am off the train station parking lot. To reserve a seat call 8 911 349 9000. The trip will take about 4 hours and as of the moment, it costs 700 roubles ($12US). The train is slightly slower and considerably more expensive ($20-35) but there are several during the day. See tutu.ru for the train schedule.
Another option of getting to Murmansk is by arranging a ride through blablacar.ru. My first experience with the system was highly positive. Lots of traffic between Kandalaksha and Murmansk, and the “standard” cost is 500 roubles (under $10) per passenger.
“The exhibition Metsä (Finnish “Forest”) opens on Friday, June 2, at 5 pm. It is arranged by the Murmansk Regional Art Museum, but takes place in the Murmansk Philharmonic Society at Murmansk, ulitsa S. Perovskoy 3. It consists of 40 large black & white photographs (10 from each country), and a book has been published with 60 photos, and text in English, Finnish, Russian and Sami.
I enclose two word docs of the foreword I wrote in the book, in Russian and English, if you would like to mention this on your website.
For pictures, please go to my website, and copy some images from http://perberntsen.com/_artwork/_pages/metsa1.php“