Guest house: Irina Mikhailovna Deryabina, +7 921 709 7980.
If you get stuck, call Alexei, +7 911 308 0311. His huge 3-axle ZIL truck will pull your jeep out of anywhere.
Photo by Snowman_pro from Kirovsk. Recommend.
Village of Kuzomen, Ter coast of the White Sea, about 300km east from Kandalaksha. This polar desert is a favorite place of Uncle Pasha on the Ter edge of the Kola Peninsula.
Kuzomen, last summer. The famous wild horses easily agreed to domestication in exchange for bread and cabbage.
The story in Russian, with photos >>
Cemeteries of Kashkarantsy, Olenino, Kuzomen and Varzuga, with lists of names. Cemeteries of the Murmansk Sea side. Saami cemeteries. See qwercus.narod.ru/necropolis_tre.htm
A nicely put together small booklet on Kandalaksha and area. Particularly valuable is the description of the border crossing at Salla and other travel technicalities.
At the moment it is in Russian only but the author is a good friend of mine, and I’ll be getting Pasha to translate and adapt it for English-speaking travellers.