Foreigner access to Rybachy and Sredny

I’ve recently have been once again looking at the issue. It appears that the only way to get the FSB (former KGB) permit is via a local incoming travel agency. Those I’ve contacted (,, and would only arrange permits to the participants of their tours that start at ~$400/person. I’m continuing to look for one that would provide assistance with no strings in the form of tour participation attached.

Any hints or suggestions?

My English students seek conversation practice

Here is a letter from one of them:

irina-2I’m desperate for English conversation practice!

In exchange, I can be your guide in Kandalaksha.

I can meet you at the train station, help you check into a hotel, recommend a place to eat, suggest places to visit, take you there, keep you from getting lost, and in every other way make you stay in Kandalaksha pleasant and comfortable. All totally free if you speak English to me and encourage me to do the same.

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Teriberka festival August 12-14

teriberka-2I wrote about it before, and here I’d like to confirm that it is indeed happening in two weeks.

And Alexandra personally spoke with local border guards who confirmed that there are no restrictions to foreigner access to Teriberka.

What territories are closed to foreigners – info from the horse’s mouth

kgb-still-watchingPulled up enough courage to dial the KGB Murmansk number given on top of the application to visit Sredny and Rybachy on the regional Ministry of Natural Resources site. To my surprise they picked up the phone on my first attempt and quickly referred me to another number, +7 (8152) 454108, and that number again answered, but the answer was alas that yes, a special permission is required, and the traveller has to contact KGB via one of the registered tourist organizations in the Murmansk region, NOT directly as the statement on top of the form seems to imply. They say it takes about a month to get the permit.

So we now now how to easily get a credible answer as to what is closed off to foreign travellers, and an approximate procedure, although a local company with a proven track record of arranging for these permits needs to be found and tested.

A application for a permit to visit Sredny and Rybachy on the Ministry’s site

permitGot a question from a Finnish traveller where application form for the permit mentioned here a year ago has disappeared. Having done a search, I have re-discovered it in a different location of the same Murmansk Ministry of Natural Resourses site.

The question of whether foreigners can or cannot visit Sredny and Rybachy, and what permit if any is required, remains open. No permit is required according to the Barents Observer article but on top of the Ministry form it says is is indeed needed for non-Russians.

By some reason I don’t feel like calling the KGB headquarters in Murmansk even though they are closest to possessing the most current info.


Access to Sredni and Rybachi peninsula

According to this 2010 Barents Observer article (thanks, Heikki) this area is no longer restricted to travellers, including foreigners. The application one had to fill out in advance last year seems to have disappeared from the Ministry of Natural Resources and Ecology of the Murmansk region site so we can probably assume it is no longer required. Better call someone based on Sredni or Rybachi, or get me to call them on your behalf to get up-to-date information, before going there.

To would be travellers to “no foreigner access” areas

noJust spoke with someone actively involved in the Umba tourism scene about the feasibility of getting an official permit for foreigners to visit the area. Was told that success in obtaining such is so extremely rare as not to be worth trying.

In all probability the same applies to other “no foreigner access” areas.

The consequences of being caught there without the permit is a fine and termination of your Russian visa, and denial of visa application for several years. And the police are said to be happy to charge trespassers.

Sorry folks..

Yet another report of a criminal charge for “fictional registration”

registrationB-port reports yet another host in Nickel busted for providing “fictional registration” to foreigners. According to Article 322.3 of the Russian Federation Criminal Code, “fictional registration” is registration without intent to provide living space. At one point, years ago, it was a common $25-50 service available to foreign travellers!

Visa support from

Recently I’ve been seeing lots of active advertising for Russian visa support by LLCenter, looked at and explored their site, liked what I saw and am sharing it with you, a potential travellers to Russia.

At you’ll find both comprehensive Russian visa information, clearly presented, and specific offers to make it real.

The service is geared towards those who prefer to make the visa invitation and registration business online.

I’m happy to say not much has changed in the last 2-3 years, after I stopped actively providing visa support and registration. Those who don’t want to be hassled exploring the system are still welcomed to talk to me about their visa support and related needs.