Gennady Alexandrov’s trip to Chapoma and Pulonga

The road ends in Kuzomen. This trip by our friend and colleague, local history expert Gennady Alexandrov, was beyond any semblance of a road, which makes me want to share it with you.


Chapoma and Pulonga are marked with red arrows.

The trip starts with hiring a heavy truck and crossing the Varzuga River:


100-something kilometers of a gruelling non-road, and you’ll find yourself in Chapoma. The village of Chapoma (pop. 80) is still alive:


46 48 chapoma-2

The non-road ends in Chapoma, and the rest of the way to Pulonga, ~80km, was made by a motor boat.

That’s what’s left of Pulonga:


Since late 50s it is not an inhabited location.


Pulonga may be of interest to WW2 history buffs because of remains of fortifications. A battery of hawitzers is said to had been installed there before the war and stood there till 1947. There are also rumours of an airfield construction in the aras during the war.



Other than that present-day Pulonga is not much other than a lots of sand:


12 17 25The way back from Chapoma to Umba was made by helicopter. That’s another somewhat unpredictable way of travelling these places.

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