Library of Pomor History and Culture, ul. Dzerzhinskogo 40, tel. 8 (81559) 51373. More >>
Museum of History, Culture, and Industry of Tersky Pomors, ul. Dzherzhinskogo 78, tel. 8 (81559) 51532, open Tue. to Sat. 9am to 5pm, closed Sunday and Monday. More >>
Kanozero Rock Carvings Museum, ul. Dzerzhinskogo 40, tel. 8 81559 50657, 8 911 312 9557, open Mon. to Thur. 8am to 5pm, close for lunch noon to 1pm, Friday 8am to 12noon, closed Saturday and Sunday. Museum’s site >>
“Tonya Tetrina” fishing station. A history and ethnography complex. 27km east from Umba (towards Varzuga). Tel. 8 911 343 5140. Their site >>
Classic Pomor boats are made or till recently used to be made in Umba. These are real things used in the Pomor Rowing Regatta held in the middle of June every year in Umba. I’m interested in getting a hold of one of these myself, and will be checking if the old boat maker is still in business..
Umba, population ~5500, is the geographic, historic, and administrative center of Tersky Rayon (district). There is no settlement called “Ter” though. “Ter” (adjective “Tersky”) refers to the whole of the south edge of the peninsula because unlike most of Kola it is (was) covered by forest.
110km east from from Kandalaksha, average road quality, travel time close to two hours unless you hire a crazy Russian driver who’ll make it in one but the number of wreathes and black ribbons by the road and car carcasses in the ditches makes me thing it a bad idea. I can avail my services to go to Umba. $250 will cover a one-day trip.
Bus from Kandalaksha to Umba runs twice a day. For departure times call the Kandalaksha bus station at (81533) 43501.
THERE IS AN AIRPORT IN UMBA – BUT THAT’S A SEPARATE STORY. YOU CAN EVEN RENT A HELICOPTER FOR $3000 PER HOUR!!
Pudozh, Karelia, has been on my “good vibes” list for two years. Just learned that old-style communists are still in power there. I always felt good in and around Umba, the center of the Ter side of Kola, and a couple of weeks ago Vasivanych told me the local administration got communist majority. I wonder if this is a coincidence. Probably not.
On our way to Kuzomen with a stopover in Kashkarantsy. Of things unpleasant, it was road repair, with 10 kilometers of large gravel between Umba and Kashkarantsy. Of misadventures, it was a blown camper tire. If we lose another one we are looking into a serious adjustment of plans as the nearest tire repair place is in Umba, 100+ kilometers of a really bad road back.
Saw a fox right in front of us but by the time Alexandra got out her camera the animal had almost disappeared in the bush.
This is me by the White Sea coast ~200 meters from our new dacha, where my mate regularly drags me out, after a forced walk at minus 20 degrees centigrade (minus 4 Fahrenheit)
An appropriate end of December exercise may be to sum up the results of this year, my fourth one in Kandalaksha.
Making a living remains the number one issue. On that front I’m pleased to note that, after three years here, I seem to have achieved a certain popularity as an English tutor, and have just as many clients – mostly from among the local kids – as I need, three or four one hour lessons on an average day, exactly as much as I can comfortably handle.
As far as providing services to travelers and those who have an interest in Russia but can’t be here, several projects completed in 2017 come to mind.
Once in a while I receive a question about business/investment opportunities in Russia. Yesterday I got a tip from one of my Pasvik Nature Reserve acquaintances to the effect that long-talked-about garbage sorting and civilized processing has at last been implemented in Murmansk, and that South Kola (Kandalaksha, Apatity, Umba) is next, and the authorities are looking for an investor into this project.
Previous attempts to deal with garbage in a better way than hauling it all to the dump and just leaving it there to rot have somehow not taken off in Kandalaksha, although the dump itself is a picturesque place if you have a taste for that sort of things.
Personally, I am fascinated by garbage and will welcome a request to look further into the situation with trash collection and processing.