Accommodation in Umba

Accommodation is often/usually combined with fishing and travel, which is what attracts most travellers to Umba. Don’t expect luxury but a clean bed and a hot sauna are usually available.

  • Fishing House of V.V. Kozhin, accommodation, fishing, and sauna. Tel. 8 911 347 5506.
  • Camp Umba Discovery, Irina Volkova, +7 81559 51629, mob. +7 921 1566412, irinaumba@com.mels.ruTheir site >>
  • Hotel Belstoy, right on the shore, ul. Dzerzhinskogo 17, tel. 8 81559 51590, 8 911 317 2232
  • Camp Ustye on the Umba river. Ul. Morskaya 1a, tel. 8 911 344 3921, 8 921 150 9343.
  • Umba Village Guest House on the Umba river, ul. Morskaya 3, tel. 8 911 3222202.
  • Hotel Virage, economy (as of May 2013 a double room was under 500 roubles/$17 per night), ul. Vostochnaya 26, tel. 8 81559 50747, 8 911 305 6769
  • Hotel Indel, Pomor cooking, fishing, Tersky edge tours. Ul. Vosmogo Marta 2b, tel. +7 (495) 772 8973 (Moscow number!), +7 911 335 1837, +7 953 930 1991, More on Indel’s site >>
  • Pogost Sports and Fishing Camp, 12km west (towards Kandalaksha) from Umba, tel. 8 921 152 19 96

Tersky Cost organizes fishing tours. They are also said to make nature, travel, and adventure documentaries. Based in Umba. See

Events, culture, souvenirs and other touristy things in Umba

and other touristy things

  • Tourist Information Center, ul. Dzherzhinskogo 40, (881559) 51744. More >>
  • Folklore Festival three times a year. More at
  • Pomor Rawing Regatta. More at
  • Pomor Kuzulya (bread figurine) Festival at Kuzreka. More at
  • Sports Fishing Contest “Fish Face”.
  • Library of Pomor History and Culture, ul. Dzerzhinskogo 40, tel. 8 (81559) 51373. More >>
  • Museum of History, Culture, and Industry of Tersky Pomors, ul. Dzherzhinskogo 78, tel. 8 (81559) 51532, open Tue. to Sat. 9am to 5pm, closed Sunday and Monday. More >>
  • Kanozero Rock Carvings Museum, ul. Dzerzhinskogo 40, tel. 8 81559 50657, 8 911 312 9557, open Mon. to Thur. 8am to 5pm, close for lunch noon to 1pm, Friday 8am to 12noon, closed Saturday and Sunday. Museum’s site >>
  • “Tonya Tetrina” fishing station. A history and ethnography complex. 27km east from Umba (towards Varzuga). Tel.  8 911 343 5140. Their site >>
  • Umba Students Science Society. Society’s site >>
  • Amethyst Shore. Souvenirs, workshops. Ul. Gornaya 60, tel. 8 921 151 3991, 8 921 667 5920. More >>
  • Stuffed Fish Studio, tel. 8 921 152 1996.
  • Department of Preservation and Development of Pomor Traditions and Trades, ul. Belomorskaya 1a, tel. 8 815 59 52385. Open Tue. to Sat. 10am to 6pm (closed for lunch 2pm to 3pm), closed Sun. and Mon.
  • Suvoy Tour Agency, the village of Kuzreka, tel. 8 81559 51135, 8 911 319 8973

For a city of this size this is a lot, and it is not even all!

Pomor boats from Umba

Classic Pomor boats are made or till recently used to be made in Umba. These are real things used in the Pomor Rowing Regatta held in the middle of June every year in Umba. I’m interested in getting a hold of one of these myself, and will be checking if the old boat maker is still in business..

Umba, the center of “Ter”

Umba, population ~5500, is the geographic, historic, and administrative center of Tersky Rayon (district). There is no settlement called “Ter” though. “Ter” (adjective “Tersky”) refers to the whole of the south edge of the peninsula because unlike most of Kola it is (was) covered by forest.

110km east from from Kandalaksha, average road quality, travel time close to two hours unless you hire a crazy Russian driver who’ll make it in one but the number of wreathes and black ribbons by the road and car carcasses in the ditches makes me thing it a bad idea. I can avail my services to go to Umba. $250 will cover a one-day trip.

Bus from Kandalaksha to Umba runs twice a day. For departure times call the Kandalaksha bus station at (81533) 43501.


See Categories > South Edge of Kola > Umba below for accommodation, art and culture, fishing, business scene etc. Or do a search on Umba. A must to visit is the Ametist Store and Workshop. The Search button is at the top of the left sidebar.

Off to Kuzomen

On our way to Kuzomen with a stopover in Kashkarantsy. Of things unpleasant, it was road repair, with 10 kilometers of large gravel between Umba and Kashkarantsy. Of misadventures, it was a blown camper tire. If we lose another one we are looking into a serious adjustment of plans as the nearest tire repair place is in Umba, 100+ kilometers of a really bad road back.

Saw a fox right in front of us but by the time Alexandra got out her camera the animal had almost disappeared in the bush.

more >>

2017 year summary

This is me by the White Sea coast ~200 meters from our new dacha, where my mate regularly drags me out, after a forced walk at minus 20 degrees centigrade (minus 4 Fahrenheit)

An appropriate end of December exercise may be to sum up the results of this year, my fourth one in Kandalaksha.

Making a living remains the number one issue. On that front I’m pleased to note that, after three years here, I seem to have achieved a certain popularity as an English tutor, and have just as many clients – mostly from among the local kids – as I need, three or four one hour lessons on an average day, exactly as much as I can comfortably handle.

As far as providing services to travelers and those who have an interest in Russia but can’t be here, several projects completed in 2017 come to mind.

more >>

Garbage sorting said to be implemented in the north of the Kola Peninsula; south is next

Once in a while I receive a question about business/investment opportunities in Russia. Yesterday I got a tip from one of my Pasvik Nature Reserve acquaintances to the effect that long-talked-about garbage sorting and civilized processing has at last been implemented in Murmansk, and that South Kola (Kandalaksha, Apatity, Umba) is next, and the authorities are looking for an investor into this project.

Previous attempts to deal with garbage in a better way than hauling it all to the dump and just leaving it there to rot have somehow not taken off in Kandalaksha, although the dump itself is a picturesque place if you have a taste for that sort of things.

Personally, I am fascinated by garbage and will welcome a request to look further into the situation with trash collection and processing.