There is a hut at the very top of the Volosyanaya mountain top just east from Kandalaksha. Free to use. Equipped with a wood stove. A good place for resting, meditation, or bird watching.
Meet the Merkulenkov family: Julia, Dima, Jean, three Chow-chow dogs, one chinchilla, and several parrots. They will host you and act as your guides – and they know the area real well – entirely free in exchange for some very serious English conversation practice.